Here’s a breakdown on all you need to know.
What is it?
Gauge is the number of stitches and rows within a specified parameter. It’s not only specific to each finger stitcher because our tools (fingers) for sizing stitches are not all the same, but it’s also specific to each stitch pattern we may work as well.
Why do we need to understand it?
We need to understand gauge quite simply because we need to know how many stitches and rows we will need to work to meet measurement requirements when working any flat project. Now, when we’re talking about most blanket sizes, it’s not that big a deal that we’re spot on with the measurements as long as we’re within 3 inches or so. However, in cases where precision matters – think wearables and graphic blanket designs – gauge cannot be off.
Can we change our gauge?
Yep! We sure can 🤗 We have so many different techniques we can apply to change our gauge. Let’s begin first with width adjustments. The width of our stitches is probably 99% controlled by the length of yarn between our stitches, otherwise known as “SLACK.” Minimizing the amount of slack between our stitches results in the need for more stitches and yarn to meet a specific measurement. Contrarily, increasing our slack will require fewer stitches to meet that same measurement and less yarn.
Now, the height of our stitches is all about the size of our loops. We have so many ways to adjust the size of our loops!
Not only do we have varying sizes on each of our digits – think tip of thumb/finger, at the knuckle and full thumb/finger either tightly snuggly or loosely wrapped – but we can also use multiple fingers to increase those loops in a tight, snug or loose fashion as well. The smaller our loops, the more rows we’ll need to work and the more yarn we’ll use to meet a specific measurement.
Why would we want to change our gauge?
When pattern designers publish their patterns, gauge will more than likely be specified when providing sizing information. Afterall, size does not exist without gauge. Let me repeat that…size does NOT EXIST without gauge. Good pattern designers have a good understanding of this. If you purchase a pattern that references size without any mention of gauge, it’s highly likely that your pattern will not match the size provided. This is NOT an issue of improper stitching or doing something wrong when working the pattern. However, when a pattern provides gauge requirements for a given size, it is up to the stitcher to figure out how to work within the parameters of that gauge, especially when sizing matters.
So, how do we calculate it?
The easiest way to calculate gauge is to first record these 2 key measurements for a given stitch pattern: the number of stitches worked and the total width of those stitches (recorded as “x stitches per x inches or cm) & the number of rows worked and the total length of those rows (recorded as x rows per x inches or cm). For example, if we know that when working the stockinette stitch (the basic knit stitch for all stitches) we need 32 stitches per 40 inches and 102 rows per 60 inches (not including the foundation and bind off chains in this measurement), we have everything we need to calculate gauge. Now, if we don’t have this information for the stitch pattern we plan to work, we have to create a swatch to obtain it.
To create a swatch, do the following:
- Work 15 stitches and 20 rows in the desired stitch pattern and bind off – do NOT drop the 1st stitch at the beginning of each row with the exception of Row 1
- Measure the width of those 15 stitches and record it: 15 stitches per x inches or cm
- Measure the length of those 20 rows and include the foundation and bind off chains, then subtract 2 (the length of the foundation and bind off chains) and record it: 20 rows per x inches
Now it’s time to do the math…
Yes, MATH 😵💫 If you hate math, no worries! I’m here to help. First, we’ll begin with our stitches. Using our previous example for the stockinette stitch patter, we know that we need 32 stitches per 40 inches. This can be rewritten as a fraction as follows:
32st/40”, which reads, 32st divided by 40”. This gives us 0.80st/in. This is our stitch gauge.
We also know that we need 102 rows per 60”. This also can be rewritten as a fraction:
102r/60”, which reads 102r divided by 60”. This gives us 1.7r/in. This is our row gauge.
Now finally, how do we use it?
Say we want to make a baby blanket 35×45 inches in the stockinette stitch pattern. Here’s what we know:
- Width = 35 inches
- Length = 45 inches
- St/in = 0.80
- R/in = 1.7
Here’s what we want to know:
- X stitches = 35 inches or xst/35in
- X rows = 45 inches or xr/45in
Now we create the formulas and solve for x:
- 0.80st/in = xst/35in
- Multiply both sides by 35in to isolate xst: 0.80st/in * 35in = xst/35in * 35in
- The inches get cancelled out leaving us with 0.80st * 35 = 28st
Now we know… We will need to chain 28 for our baby blanket to 35 inches wide
- 1.7r/in = xr/45in
- Multiply both sides by 45in to isolate xr: 1.7r/in * 45in = xr/45in * 45in
Again, the inches get cancelled out leaving us with 1.7r * 45 = 76.5r
Now we know… We will need to work either 76 or 77 rows for our baby blanket to be as close to 45 inches in length as possible given our gauge.
That’s gauge in a nutshell 🤗 A very BIG nutshell! If there’s something you’d like to learn more about, please email me at support@justspoolinaround.com with your request. I’ll do my very best to cover it in a timely manner.
Peace out, Lovies! Until next time 🧶